September 2004

Odours

I don’t write much when I’m away, but when I’m back, I’m immediately inspired again. That’s what the Cote does to you. Right after I arrived at the airport, waiting for my luggage, I overheard a woman saying: “Welcome to France, the toilets stink”. Indeed, soon after I left the terminal, I realised how much smells are part of the Experience. As soon as you start paying attention, they’re all around you. Lavender, olive oil and socca, of course. But also, subtler ones like The Nice “Gaz Naturel” buses, sunblock cream delicately smeared over the bodies of sunbathers, the sweat of Aldo preparing my weekly Napolitaine pizza, and countless others. Individually, each might not provide great satisfaction. But as they all blend together in a glorious olfactory feast, you know you’re where you belong.

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